Well sliced, well dressed and enjoyed: the cucumber
Dr. Samuel Johnson, the author of many encyclopedias during the 18th century, is quoted as saying "A cucumber should be well sliced, and dressed with pepper and vinegar, and then thrown out, as good for nothing."
Do you agree with that statement? A fresh-from-the garden cucumber should indeed, be “well sliced and dressed with pepper and vinegar,” but thrown out? Never! In my humble opinion, it should be eaten and enjoyed.
In looking through my cucumber file, I found an interesting tidbit of medical information. It seems that if you are indeed, one of those folks who must reach for a non-aspirin pain reliever because you are allergic to aspirin, then you should avoid eating cucumbers. Peeled or unpeeled, cucumbers contain ingredients that can cause an unpleasant itching sensation in the mouth for those who do have this allergy. (Source: “The Great Food Almanac,” by Irena Chalmers.
I think we all immediately reach for a cucumber when preparing a garden salad, but this week's column offers some new ways to use cukes as well as a delicious chilled cucumber soup, the best ever dill pickles (canned) plus a simple recipe for making crunchy, delicious bread and butter pickles that keep in the fridge for a couple of months. (No canning!)
Benedictine dip
This recipe was named after Jennie Carter Benedict, a chef and restaurateur from Louisville, Ky., who created it at the turn of the 20th century. It was originally used for cucumber sandwiches but can also be enjoyed as a dip for chips or a spread for crackers.
- 4 oz. cream cheese, softened (may use reduced fat cream cheese), softened
- 1 log (4 oz.) fresh goat cheese, softened
- 2 Tbsp. minced fresh parsley
- 1 Tbsp. mayonnaise (may use reduced fat mayo)
- 1/4 tsp. salt
- 1/8 tsp. cayenne pepper
- 1/8 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
- 1 drop green food coloring, optional
- 3/4 cup finely chopped peeled cucumber, patted dry*
- 1/4 cup finely chopped green onions
Combine cream cheese and goat cheese in a small bowl and beat on low speed of electric mixer until smooth. Add parsley, mayonnaise, salt, cayenne, pepper and food coloring, if desired; beat until smooth. Stir in cucumber and green onion. Cover and chill at least 3 hours before serving. Yield: about 1-3/4 cups.
*If using larger cucumbers, scoop out the seeds and discard before chopping.
Cold cucumber soup with radishes and herbs
The reason for chilling this quickly in an ice bath (versus refrigerating for several hours) is to keep the cucumber and radishes crisp.
- 1 cucumber (about 6-7 inches or 2 small) peeled, seeded and cut into
- 1/4-inch dice
- 8 small radishes, cut into 1/4-inch dice
- 1 clove garlic, peeled and minced
- 3 Tbsp. chopped fresh mint (no substitutions), divided use
- 3 Tbsp. chopped fresh dill (no substitutions), divided use
- 2 cups plain yogurt, well chilled
- 1 cup low fat milk, well chilled
- 2-1/2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
- 2-1/2 Tbsp. extra virgin olive oil
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Combine cucumber, radishes, garlic and 1 Tbsp. each of mint and dill in a small bowl; reserve. In another larger bowl, whisk together yogurt, milk, lemon juice and olive oil. Stir in the reserved veggies; season to taste with salt and pepper. Set the bowl in a larger bowl of ice water and stir every so often for 10-15 minutes or until well chilled. Ladle into bowls: sprinkle with remaining mint and dill and serve at once. Yield: 4 servings.
Marinated chickpea and cucumber salad
Again, if using larger cukes, it is best to seed them. Smaller ones have smaller seeds so it isn’t necessary.
- 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
- 2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
- 1 clove garlic, peeled and minced
- 1/2 tsp. freshly grated lemon zest
- 1/4 tsp. ground cumin
- 1/2 tsp. salt
- 1/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
- 1 can (19-oz.) chickpeas, drained, rinsed and drained again
- 5 small cucumbers (I use picking/Kirby cukes), thinly sliced crosswise
- 6 large red radishes
- 1/2 medium red onion, peeled and chopped
- 3 Tbsp. finely chopped fresh parsley
Combine olive oil, lemon juice, garlic, lemon zest, cumin, salt and pepper in a large bowl. Add the chickpeas; let marinate for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. Stir in the cucumbers, radishes, onion and parsley; season to taste with additional salt and freshly ground black pepper and serve at once. Yield: 6 servings.
Summer Italian bread salad
A good, crusty loaf of focaccia works great in this salad. I used one studded with fresh rosemary.
- 1 loaf (1 lb.) crusty Italian bread
- 1 cup chopped tomatoes
- 1 cup chopped (and seeded) cucumber
- 1 cup chopped red onion
- 1 clove garlic, peeled and minced
- 1-3/4 cups chopped fresh basil
- 1/8 cup chopped fresh thyme
- 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
- 2 Tbsp. balsamic vinegar
Tear bread into bite sized pieces and place in a large salad bowl. Set aside. In another bowl, combine the, tomatoes, cucumbers, red onions, garlic, basil, thyme, olive oil and vinegar; stir gently to mix well. Add to reserved bread pieces in salad bowl and toss several times to coat. Serve immediately. Yield: 4 servings.
Tips for perfect pickles
- CUCUMBERS: Pickling cucumbers hold their crunch more than any other variety. Wash them just before using and slice off blossom ends which contain enzymes that could affect the pickles.
- SALT: Only use granulated pickling salt, canning salt, or sometimes kosher salt; do not use table salt, which can cause the pickles to darken and/or make the brine cloudy.
- VINEGAR: Cider vinegar is often used for pickles, but white vinegar can be used for a lighter-color product. Always use the vinegar listed in the recipe to ensure proper acidity.
- SPICES: Use whole spices, not ground when making pickles. Ground spices will make the brine cloudy. (The exception is turmeric which is always used in ground form.)
- WATER: If you have hard water, use distilled water to be sure pickles cure properly.
Best-ever dill pickles
If you like dill pickles with a touch of garlic, add a sliver or 2 of a garlic clove to each jar with the dill seeds.
- 3 to 3-1/4 lb. small pickling cucumbers, washed and ends trimmed
- 4 cups water
- 4 cups white vinegar
- 1/2 cup sugar
- 1/3 cup pickling salt
- 6 Tbsp. dill seeds
Slice cucumbers into 1/4 to 1/2-inch-thick slices. Combine water, vinegar, sugar, and pickling salt in a large non-reactive (non-aluminum) pan set over high heat. Bring to a boil. Pack cucumbers loosely in clean, hot, pint canning jars, leaving a 1/2-inch headspace. Add 1 Tbsp. dill seeds to each jar. Pour hot vinegar mixture into jars, still leaving that 1/2-inch of headspace. Wipe jar rims and top with lids and rings.
Process in a boiling-water canner for 10 minutes (start timing when water returns to boiling). Remove jars; cool on racks. Let stand 1 week. Yield: 6 pints.
Quick bread and butter pickles
These are so simple to make and are absolutely delicious!
- 4 good sized Kirby cucumbers, sliced into 1/8 thick rounds (about 1 lb. cukes)
- 1 medium onion, peeled, cut in half and sliced into thin half moons
- 1 Tbsp. kosher salt
- 1 cup cider vinegar
- 3/4 cup sugar
- 1/2 tsp. mustard seeds
- 1/4 tsp. celery seeds
- 1/8 tsp. turmeric
Combine cucumber slices with onion in a large bowl. Add salt and toss to coat. Transfer mixture to a colander and let stand 1 hour. Combine vinegar, sugar, mustard seeds, celery seeds and turmeric in a large saucepan set over high heat; bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low and add cucumber/onion mixture. Use the back of a large spoon to press veggies down to submerge in the liquid. Cover and cook 5 minutes or until cucumbers turn dullish olive green, stirring once or twice. Transfer to 2 clean pint canning jars. Cover with lids and rings and refrigerate for a couple of days before enjoying. Will keep in ‘fridge for at least 6 weeks. Yield: 2 pints.
Paula Anderson is a freelance journalist specializing in food, entertaining and nutrition. She writes for several newspapers, as well as Maine Food & Lifestyle Magazine. She divides her time between Scarborough and Big Pine Key, Fla., where she lives with her husband Peter. Correspondence can be addressed to her at the Boothbay Register, P.O. Box 357, Boothbay Harbor, ME 04538 or the Wiscasset Newspaper, P.O. Box 429, Wiscasset, ME 04578. You can also write to her directly via email at pander@maine.rr.com.
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