“City of Gold.” The city is Los Angeles, the Gold, Jonathan Gold, LA Times film critic and 2007 Pulitizer Prize winner. In the film “City of Gold,” we accompany Gold throughout his days to and from restaurants he's reviewing, to time spent with his family, and we tour the city he loves, Los Angeles, with our culinary geographer through its paradise of ethnic foods.

There are guest critics talking about what makes Gold so different from the pack, as well as restaurant owners and his editor at LA Times.

Gold is a very likable guy, and we travel, just as Laura Gabbert filming this documentary, with him along for the ride — though we wish we could taste the food cos it looks yummy! Except for the fried grasshoppers. As Gold's dining partner — either a critic or his wife, Laura Ochoa, says, “I like these because they are still a whole body or being or something ... ” (Whatever)

This is a really fun film — anyone who loves food, who is a food critic, chef or owns a restaurant will love this witty, gastric jaunt through Los Angeles. Go with Gold to his favorite haunts, to new eateries that have reached his radar; meet his wife and kids and learn about Gold the husband-dad. He grew up in south central L.A., where his dad was a teacher. But after the riots exploded, the family relocated. Gold's relating of that time is not overly emotional, but not matter-of-fact either. And as he tells the story, driving, small family-owned restaurants in strip malls are in every shot.

Gold takes audiences on a journey across the city, in his role as culinary geographer. We go to L.A.'s Little Ehiopia, Koreatown, San Gabriel Valley's Chinese restaurants, Tehrangeles and into the area of the best Thai food.

Restaurant owners like Gold. He tells it like it is — and he's not afraid to try something new.

What Gold does find troubling is writer's block. He can procrastinate with the best. Gold does research before writing any review, before trying out a new restaurant, or food. And then, of course he has to visit the restaurants — and not just once — usually eating there four to five times. And he often brings guests, or his family. He says in the film that he once went to a restaurant 17 times, that's 1-7 times, before he could write the review.

But, hey, whatever it takes, because not only is Jonathan Gold an incredibly down to earth food critic, he's an incredibly good storyteller.

Gold tells us he does all of the things you're (a critic) supposed to: makes a reservation under a phony name on a throwaway phone, wears disguises — hats, masks, etc.

“The fat man's version of 'The Bourne Identity.'” Gold says with a smile.

By seeking out the small, mom and pop type restaurants of varying ethnicity, he is bringing the appetites of different cultures together. And, Gold is helping these small eateries.

Genet Agonafer, owner of Meals by Genet, was blessed to have a son bankroll her restaurant space — and business was great, until 9/11. Genet says after that, no one came.

“And then all of a sudden the review came out,” Genet says, “And I could not cook fast enough — the people keep coming.”

Through Gold's reviews connections are made: between people, cultures and food.

And, the music, by Bobby Johnson, is great — a little jazzy, little bluesy, a little “rap'll-do-ya.”

See “City of Gold.” It plays at The Harbor Theatre tonight, Friday, April 22 at 7 p.m. It continues Saturday, April 23, Wednesday, April 27 and Thursday, April 28 at 7 p.m. A matinee on Sunday, April 24 begins at 2 p.m.

I would advise not going hungry.