The year: 1696. The place: France. The rage: peas!

Oddly enough, there was a brief craze over green peas in Paris. The pleasures of eating peas were a hot topic even in the courts, and some of the most “in vogue” ladies of the city were known to have peas after dinner as a bed-time snack. How chic!

Dried peas were actually found by archaeologists in Egyptian tombs but it wasn’t until the 16th century that varieties tender enough to be eaten fresh were developed. Today only about 5 percent of all peas grown are sold fresh: more than half of all peas sold are canned and the better part of the remaining amount is sold frozen.

Green peas are a member of the legume family, which also includes other plants that have pods with soft seeds inside. Peas are a good source of protein – about 3/4 cup (roughly 100 calories) provides more protein than a whole egg or a tablespoon of peanut butter.

Always refrigerate fresh peas as soon as possible and I would not buy peas at a farm stand or supermarket if they were not kept well chilled. Half of the sugar content will turn to starch within 6 hours if they are not kept cold. Cool temperatures also preserve their texture and vitamins and minerals.

Select pods that are firm and have a shiny look with a soft, almost velvety feel. One pound of fresh peas in the pod will yield about 1 cup peas, shelled.

That being said, it is really best to eat fresh peas just as soon as they are picked or purchased. If you must store them, place them in a perforated plastic bag in the vegetable bin of your ‘fridge for no longer than one day. Shell fresh peas just before you cook them.

Frozen peas are a pretty remarkable runner up to fresh peas, but canned peas rate pretty high on my personal “yuck” scale.

I’ve include a couple of favorite recipes using frozen peas that are delicious any time of the year.

CREAM OF PEA SOUP

For a vegetarian version, substitute vegetable broth.

2 Tbsp. unsalted butter

1 medium white onion, peeled and diced

1/2 tsp. salt

2 Tbsp. all purpose flour

4 cups reduced sodium chicken stock

1 1/2 lb. frozen peas, thawed

1/2 cup heavy cream

Additional salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Melt butter in a large Dutch oven over medium heat. Add onion and salt and cook 4-5 minutes or until onion is soft. Sprinkle flour over onion and cook, stirring constantly, for 1 minute. Slowly add the stock, scraping up any browned bits on the bottom of the pan. Bring to a simmer; cook 5 minutes.

Add the peas to the soup and simmer 7- 9 minutes or until peas are tender. Let cool slightly and puree soup in batches until smooth. Return the pureed soup to the pot; stir in cream and gently continue simmering until soup is hot. Season to taste with additional salt and freshly ground black pepper. Yield: six to eight servings.

LAYERED PICNIC SALAD

This is a favorite summer salad in my house. Yummy with burgers or grilled chicken!

1 large head iceberg lettuce, chopped into about 1-inch pieces

1/2 cup chopped celery

1/2 cup chopped onion

1 (8-oz.) can whole water chestnuts, drained and rough chopped

1 (10-oz.) pkg. frozen peas (not necessary to thaw)

2 cups mayonnaise

1/2 cup freshly grated parmesan cheese

6 hard cooked eggs

6 slices bacon, cooked, cooled and crumbled

Spread a layer of lettuce in the bottom of a 13-by-9-by-2-inch casserole dish. Continue by adding a layer in this order: celery, onion, water chestnuts and peas. Gently spread mayonnaise over the top layer and sprinkle with parmesan cheese. Cover and refrigerate at least 8 hours or overnight.

Cover with sliced hard cooked eggs and crumbled bacon just before serving. Yield: eight to 10 servings.

FRESH PEA SALAD

This unusual salad has great texture and is a cinch to make. You can substitute equal amount of frozen peas, thawed.

4 cups fresh peas, cooked until crisp tender

1 bunch green onions, sliced

2 (8-oz. each) cans sliced water chestnuts, drained

1/4 cup roasted red peppers, diced

2/3 cup sour cream

2/3 cup mayonnaise

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

1/4 cup chopped cashews

In a large bowl, combine peas, green onions, water chestnuts and roasted red peppers. Set aside. In a small bowl, whisk together sour cream and mayonnaise. Combine pea mixture with sour cream mixture, tossing to coat. Season to taste with salt and pepper and stir gently.

Cover and refrigerate for one hour. Top with chopped cashews just before servings. Yield: eight servings.

PAPPARDELLE WITH CHICKEN AND PEAS

Evaporated skim milk makes the pasta sauce rich and creamy and is lower in calories than cream.

6 oz. dried pappardelle or other wide egg noodles

1 cup shelled sweet peas

1/2 of a 14.5-oz. can Italian-style stewed tomatoes, undrained

2 tsp. olive oil

8 oz. skinless, boneless chicken breast, cut into large bite-size pieces

1 small onion, peeled and cut into thin wedges

1/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper

1/4 cup reduced sodium chicken stock

1/4 cup evaporated skim milk

2 Tbsp. freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Cook noodles according to package directions, adding peas during the last 3 minutes of cooking. Drain and keep warm in a serving dish. Meanwhile, place undrained tomatoes in a food processor and blend until smooth; set aside.

Heat olive oil in a large skillet set over medium-high heat. Add chicken, onion and black pepper. Cook 2 to 4 minutes or until chick¬en is cooked through and onions crisp-tender. Stir in chicken stock and pureed tomatoes; bring to a boil and boil gently for 2 minutes. Stir in evaporated milk and continue boiling gently for 3 more minutes or until sauce thickens a bit.

Spoon sauce over pea/noodle mixture in serving dish and toss gently. Sprinkle with parmesan cheese and serve immediately. Yield: four servings (320 calories per serving with 5 g fat)

Paula Anderson is a freelance journalist specializing in food, entertaining and nutrition. She writes for several newspapers, as well as Maine Food & Lifestyle Magazine. She divides her time between Scarborough and Big Pine Key, Fla., where she lives with her husband Peter and their kitty Mina. Correspondence can be addressed to her at the Boothbay Register, P.O. Box 357, Boothbay Harbor, ME 04538 or the Wiscasset Newspaper, P.O. Box 429, Wiscasset, ME 04578. You can also write to her directly via email at pander@maine.rr.com.