Wings and a prayer as new chef mans Herringbones

Sat, 05/14/2016 - 8:00am

    In the crowded and competitive restaurant landscape of Boothbay Harbor, new Herringbones Pub & Grill executive chef Michael Morissette wants people to consider the wing. Specifically, the chicken wing but more to the point, a 10-cent wing.

    “It's something I've wanted to do for awhile,” said the 28-year-old Morissette. “It gets people in the door.”

    Yes, on Tuesday and Thursday nights, the 10-cent wing is a thing and probably more gourmet than the cheap, thinly coated chicken bones some may remember from the dive bars of their college days. Paired with a choice of 10 house-made sauces, the concept is centered on choice, a Buffalo Wild Wings by-the-sea approach he hopes wins over the tastes of locals and visitors alike.

    Not just a gimmick, the wing for a dime promotion — slated to last all season with no restrictions on the amount one can order — is meant as an entry point to the rest of Morissette's culinary vision, what he describes as an affordable, fresh approach to food with a gastropub bent. His hope is to provide something familiar but unconventional with a price point of around $10; the sweet spot for cost-conscious families or locals watching their wallet. Morissette will also emphasize Maine craft beer with the expectation of having 14 draft lines before the end of the summer. He admits his forte is firmly in the kitchen but accepts “tackling the beast” of the bar trade as a necessary evil.

    “It's an attention to quality. I want every piece of food to go through my fingertips,” said Morissette. “My philosophy is creativity and consistency. I send out a simple seasoned food.”

    A native of Alfred, Morissette cut his teeth in the kitchens of southern Maine including the now defunct Weathervane restaurant in South Portland. Like most chefs, an itinerant lifestyle and curiosity led him to follow his gut until he finally landed in Boothbay Harbor last summer as the sous chef of Mine Oyster, a seasonal restaurant operated under the umbrella of Ralph Smith's Boothbay Harbor Restaurant Group. Morissette describes his opportunity at Herringbones as serendipitous; he simply walked in after the season ended, had a discussion with owner Jon Hodgdon and the two quickly clicked. Hodgdon, a well-respected lobsterman, bought the restaurant four years ago.

    “I shared my vision of an on-the-water restaurant,” said Morissette. “He told me to make it happen.”

    “I can’t say enough about Johnny,” said Morissette. “He's been incredibly supportive and I haven't heard the word no to any of my ideas.”

    Morissette has also tried to change the aesthetic by creating designated sections for dining with plush, scalloped-backed chairs, tables for large, walk-in parties, and a general emphasis on the restaurant’s prime waterfront location. Per the restaurant’s tradition, live music will be present at night — food will be also be served late, although, Morissette admits, only if the demand is there. For now, his vision is modest but admits there could be a high return through his low cost wings.

    “This is the tip of the iceberg,” he said.