There is much dissension among asparagus lovers as to which spears are better: thick or thin.

It is thought by some that thinner spears are tastier based on the idea that slender spears are less mature, thus sweeter. However, it seems the fat spears are already fat when they poke up through the ground, so I hereby debunk that myth! Fat stalks are really more flavorful, but I think for presentation and texture (the outer layer can sometimes be slightly tough), they should be peeled, a task that is easily accomplished using a vegetable peeler.

During the Renaissance period, asparagus was promoted as much for its medicinal value as for its culinary use. According to writings in the 15th century, it was responsible for curing many maladies, including calming the stomach, improving eyesight and acting as both a diuretic and an aphrodisiac. Lusty Louis the XIV adored asparagus but this wonderful vegetable was banned from the tables of many nunneries for one of the reasons mentioned.

The asparagus plant reached the shores of America in the mid-17th century when colonists brought "crowns" (the underground knots of roots and stems from which the actual asparagus grows) to the New World. Now, the United States is one of the leading growers of asparagus with the bulk of the crop being harvested in California, Michigan and New Jersey.

Botanically, asparagus is a member of the lily family, related to both onions and leeks. When choosing asparagus, look for compact closed tips with firm stems free of yellowing. Check the stem ends to see how dry they are and this will give you an idea of how fresh they are. If you must store asparagus before cooking, treat like a bunch of fresh flowers: Place the asparagus stem ends down, into a container filled with a couple inches of cold water and cover loosely with a plastic bag.

Asparagus is low in calories and provides substantial amounts of two antioxidants: Vitamins A and C, as well as a good amount of fiber. A 1/2 cup portion of cooked asparagus contains about 90 calories.

Spring greens and asparagus salad with gorgonzola vinaigrette

I like to serve this salad with grilled chicken and some crusty French bread.

• 1 lb. fresh asparagus, trimmed and cut into 2-inch pieces
• 2-1/4 tsp. salt, divided use
• 2 Tbsp. minced shallots
• 2 Tbsp. white balsamic vinegar
• 2 Tbsp. extra virgin olive oil
• 1/2 tsp. grated lemon zest
• 1/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
• 1/2 cup crumbled Gorgonzola cheese, divided use
• 1 (5-oz.) package mixed salad greens

Cook asparagus and 2 tsp. salt in boiling water 2 minutes or until crisp-tender. Drain and rinse asparagus under cold water to stop cooking; drain. Combine remaining 1/4 tsp. salt, shallots, vinegar, olive oil, lemon zest, and black pepper in a small bowl, whisking to blend. Stir in 1/4 cup Gorgonzola.

Combine asparagus and greens in a large bowl. Drizzle with dressing and toss gently to coat. Sprinkle with remaining 1/4 cup cheese. Yield: 6-8 servings.

Asparagus bread pudding

This savory side dish goes particularly well with chicken or fish but can certainly stand alone as a vegetarian entree.

• 3 cups water
• 1 cup fresh asparagus, cut into 1-inch pieces
• 1 Tbsp. extra virgin olive oil
• 1/2 cup diced onion
• 1/2 cup diced orange bell pepper
• 1 tsp. salt
• 1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
• 1/2 cup dry white wine
• 3/4 cup chopped fresh basil
• 1 tsp. dry mustard
• 1 cup sour cream
• 1 cup half-and-half
• 1/2 cup whole milk
• 4 large egg yolks
• 2 large whole eggs
• 6 cups French bread, crusts removed and bread cut into 1/2-inch cubes

Bring water to a boil in a small saucepan. Add asparagus pieces and cook 45 seconds. Drain asparagus and run under cold water to stop cooking. Drain and pat asparagus dry. Set aside.

Add olive oil to a medium skillet set over medium heat. When hot, add onion and bell pepper; cook 2-3 minutes. Add asparagus, salt and black pepper and cook for 1 minute. Add wine and continue cooking until wine is reduced by one half. Remove pan from heat; set aside.

Combine basil, dry mustard, sour cream, half-and-half, milk, egg yolks, and whole eggs in a large bowl; whisk to blend. Add vegetables and bread cubes, folding to combine. Cover and let mixture sit 1 hour. Transfer mixture to individual ramekins (or a 2-quart baking dish) lightly coated with butter. Cover with parchment paper followed by aluminum foil and bake in a preheated 325 F oven 15-20 minutes for ramekins or 30-35 minutes for baking dish or until pudding is firm and golden brown. Uncover and bake 5 minutes more for ramekins or 10 minutes more if using a baking dish. Remove from oven and let stand 10 minutes before serving. Yield: 8-10 servings.

Broiled asparagus with hot prosciutto dressing

This combo of the creamy cheese with the tender asparagus and crispy prosciutto is divine! Best served immediately after broiling.

• 1 lb. asparagus spears, trimmed
• 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
• 1/2 cup prosciutto,* thinly sliced (about 1/2 of a 4 oz. pkg.)
• 1/2 cup cider vinegar
• 1 medium shallot, peeled and minced
• 1 Tbsp. honey
• 4 slices fresh mozzarella

Preheat broiler to high with rack 2 inches from heat.

Blanch asparagus in boiling water for 2-3 minutes or until crisp tender. Drain and run under cold water to stop cooking. Drain and pat dry. Arrange in 4 bundles on a rimmed sheet pan.

Add olive oil to a small skillet set over medium heat; when hot, add prosciutto and cook 3-4 minutes until frizzled. Add vinegar, shallot and honey to pan and cook 4-5 minutes, stirring often, until dressing thickens. Top asparagus “bundles” with a slice of mozzarella and place under a preheated broiler 2 inches from heat source for 1-2 minutes or until cheese is melted and golden brown. Remove from oven and transfer to salad plate; spoon hot dressing over and serve immediately. Yield: 4 servings.

*A salt-cured Italian ham that is available in most major supermarkets.

Creamy fettuccine with asparagus and peas

You can use bacon in place of pancetta if that’s all you have on hand.

• 2 thin slices pancetta slices
• 1 large clove garlic, peeled and thinly sliced
• 2/3 cup reduced sodium chicken stock
• 3 Tbsp. reduced fat cream cheese
• 3 Tbsp. mascarpone cheese
• 8 oz. fettuccine
• 1-1/2 cups (1-inch cuts) asparagus pieces
• 1/2 cup frozen green peas
• 1/2 tsp. salt
• 1/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
• 1 Tbsp. chopped fresh parsley
• 1 Tbsp. fresh chives

Place pancetta in a large skillet over medium heat; cook 6 minutes stirring occasionally until pancetta begins to crisp. Add garlic; cook 30 seconds, stirring constantly. Add stock; bring to a boil. Reduce heat; simmer 4 minutes. Add the cream cheese and mascarpone, whisking until smooth. Transfer to a large bowl and keep warm.

Cook pasta according to package directions; omitting salt and fat, adding asparagus and peas during the last 2 minutes of cooking time. Drain. Add the pasta mixture, salt, and black pepper to sauce in bowl; toss well to combine. Sprinkle with parsley and chives. Yield: 4 servings.