What’s Cooking

The rhubarb patch

Thu, 06/12/2014 - 12:00pm

Darn! Wish I’d been in the Lanesboro, Minn., area on June 8 for the annual rhubarb festival. There was a tasting contest featuring pies, crisps, cakes, soups, chutneys, chili, jams, ketchup, leathers and drinks (Rhubarb Mango Pico de Gallo won first place), a fashion show with the clothes somehow all connected to rhubarb, (the bridal bouquet made from the colorful pink stalks with the leaves intact was beautiful) and entertainment by The Rhubarb Sisters. Sounds like fun!

Rhubarb is one of the first fresh veggies we see here in Maine in late spring/early summer, and yes it is a veggie and not a fruit. We immediately turn to strawberry rhubarb pie when thinking of how to prepare rhubarb inspired dishes, but it can be used in lots of other ways. One of my favorites is to slow cook it with some sugar and a bit of water until it gets soft and almost custardy and serve it over vanilla ice cream. Yum!

The stalks of the rhubarb plant are the only edible part. The leaves should never be eaten as they contain oxalic acid, which in large enough quantity, can be toxic. When purchasing rhubarb, select firm, crisp stalks that are cherry red or deep pink in color. Very large stalks can be tough, but this is easily remedied by simply scraping off the tough outer layer with a vegetable peeler. Rhubarb freezes easily: Wash and dry the stalks and cut into 1-inch pieces. Place them on a rimmed sheet pan, cover tightly and freeze until firm. Transfer rhubarb into a zippy freezer bag or other airtight container and freeze up to 4 months.

Rhubarb mango pico de gallo

Enid Dunn was the first place winner in the 2014 Lanesboro, Minn., Rhubarb Festival with this recipe, which she served with mini shrimp tortillas. (Edited for clarity.)

  • 5 cups rhubarb, finely diced
  • 1 green bell pepper (or use red and yellow peppers for additional color)
  • 1 medium cucumber, peeled and finely diced
  • 1/2 cup diced red onion
  • 4-5 green onions, finely chopped
  • 4-5 garlic cloves, peeled and minced
  • 1-2 jalapeno peppers, seeded and minced (for more heat, do not remove seeds)
  • 1/2 cup chopped cilantro
  • 3 cups diced fresh mango
  • 1/3 cup fresh lime juice
  • 1-2 tsp. honey or to taste
  • Salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • Hot sauce (optional)

Dice rhubarb and blanch in boiling water for 20 seconds. Drain and transfer to very cold water to stop cooking process. Drain well and pat dry. Transfer to a large bowl. Add bell pepper, cucumber, onion, green onions, garlic, jalapeno, cilantro and mango; mix well. Combine lime juice with honey and add to bowl. Toss again to coat evenly. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Add hot sauce at this point if desired. Cover and refrigerate for 35-45 minutes before serving.

Rhubarb muffins

Perfect with that morning cup of coffee.

For the muffins:

  • 1-1/2 cups packed light brown sugar
  • 1/2 cup safflower oil
  • 1 large egg
  • 2 tsp. vanilla extract
  • 1 cup buttermilk
  • 1-1/2 cups diced rhubarb, fresh or frozen*
  • 1/2 cup pecans, lightly toasted and chopped
  • 2-1/2 cups all purpose flour
  • 1 tsp. baking powder
  • 1/2 tsp. salt

For the topping:

  • 1 Tbsp. cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
  • 1/3 cup firmly packed light brown sugar
  • 1 tsp. cinnamon

To prepare the muffins: In a large bowl, combine sugar, oil, egg, vanilla and buttermilk and mix with a wooden spoon. Stir in rhubarb and pecans. In a separate bowl, mix flour, baking powder and salt; gently fold into rhubarb mixture just until incorporated. Spoon batter into a 12-cup greased (or paper lined) muffin pan.

To prepare the topping: Combine butter, sugar and cinnamon and mix with fork until crumbly. Sprinkle over filled muffin cups and press lightly into the batter. Bake in a preheated 400 F oven for 18-22 minutes.

Let cool 5 minutes; turn muffins out onto a wire rack to cool. Yield: 12 – 16 muffins.

*If using frozen rhubarb, measure rhubarb while still frozen, then thaw completely before using. Drain in a colander, but do not press liquid out.

Strawberry goat cheese salad with rhubarb vinaigrette

This salad has lots of individual flavors that all marry well.

For the salad:

  • 8 cups mixed baby lettuces
  • 12 fresh strawberries, sliced
  • 4 oz. well chilled goat cheese, diced

for the vinaigrette:

  • 1 cup diced fresh rhubarb
  • 1-1/4 cups chopped fresh strawberries
  • 3 shallots, peeled and chopped
  • 1 Tbsp. sugar
  • 1/3 cup red wine vinegar
  • 3/4 cup safflower oil
  • 1/4 tsp. Dijon mustard

To prepare the salad: Combine lettuce with strawberries and goat cheese. Cover and refrigerate.

To prepare the dressing: Combine rhubarb, strawberries, shallots, sugar, and vinegar in a small saucepan. Cook over low heat for 8-10 minutes or until rhubarb is very soft and starts to break down. Remove pan from heat; let cool 5 minutes. Transfer mixture to blender or processor and puree until smooth. Push mixture through a fine mesh sieve discarding any pulp. When mixture is cool, whisk in oil and Dijon. Drizzle over salad and toss gently. Yield: 6 servings.

Peach rhubarb crisp

Serve warm with a scoop of vanilla ice cream.

For the crisp:

  • 3/4 cup sugar
  • 3 Tbsp. all purpose flour
  • 1/4 tsp. nutmeg
  • 1/2 tsp. grated lemon zest
  • 1/8 tsp. salt
  • 3 cups sliced fresh or frozen rhubarb**
  • 2-1/2 cups chopped peeled fresh peaches or frozen unsweetened peach slices, chopped

For the topping:

  • 1/2 cup all purpose flour
  • 1/2 cup old fashioned oats (not quick cooking)
  • 1/2 cup packed light brown sugar
  • 3/4 tsp. cinnamon
  • 1/8 tsp. salt
  • 5 Tbsp. cold unsalted butter, cut into pieces

To prepare the crisp: Combine sugar, flour, nutmeg, lemon zest, and salt in a small bowl; mix well. Combine rhubarb and peaches in a large bowl and sprinkle with sugar mixture. Gently toss to coat fruit evenly. Transfer to a 11 by 7 by 2-inch baking dish coated with non-stick cooking spray.

To prepare the topping: Combine flour, oats, brown sugar, cinnamon and salt in a small bowl. Cut in butter until mixture resembles coarse crumbs; sprinkle over the rhubarb mixture and bake in a preheated 375 F oven for 30-35 minutes or until bubbly and fruit is tender. Yield: 6 to 8 servings.

**If using frozen rhubarb, measure rhubarb while still frozen, then thaw completely before using. Drain in a colander, but do not press liquid out.

Paula Anderson is a freelance journalist specializing in food, entertaining, and nutrition. She writes for several Maine newspapers, teaches cooking classes at Kitchen and Cork and blogs for their newsletter. She divides her time between homes in Scarborough and Hobe Sound, Fla., where she lives with her husband Peter. Correspondence can be addressed to her via email at pander@maine.rr.com.