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When life gives you lemons

Thu, 03/27/2014 - 5:00pm

    I fear that by the time my newly planted lemon tree here in Florida produces fruit for my kitchen, I’ll be long gone back to Maine for the summer. (Will someone let me know when all that white stuff is gone? I can close up this house and be on Route 95 north in a jiffy!) I use lemons probably every day: in my vinaigrette that is always in the fridge, a wedge for my iced tea or a twist for a martini. I can think of oodles of dishes I prepare that contain lemon: chicken piccata, shrimp scampi, Caesar salad, lemon squares, and my latest lemon discovery, lemon meringue cupcakes (recipe below).
    Food historians and scientists think that the lemon might have originated in northwestern India where they have been cultivated for more than 2,500 years. Arab traders brought lemons to the Middle East and Africa sometime after 100 AD and they were likely introduced into southern Italy about 100 years later. A few centuries later, the lemon was being cultivated in Egypt and in Sumer, the southern portion of Mesopotamia.
    By the 15th century, the lemon was widely used in cooking in Europe, with the first major cultivation about the same time occurring in Genoa, Italy. Lemons found their way to the New World in 1493, when Christopher Columbus brought lemon seeds to Hispaniola. Lemons were grown in California by 1751 and by the 1800’s clever chefs in Florida had incorporated them into their cooking.
    Commercial cultivation of lemons blossomed in both California and Florida in the 1800s, but Florida’s production came to an abrupt halt after a killer freeze in the winter of 1894-1895. Planting resumed in 1953 — not because of a need for fresh lemons (California was doing a good job keeping the entire country well supplied), but for a growing market for frozen lemon concentrate and for cold pressed lemon oil.
    Lemons cannot be machine harvested so are picked by hand and are then sorted according to color. They are washed and bathed in a fungicide to prevent stem-end rot, coated with a layer of wax preservative and then stored until ready for shipping. (Yes, always wash lemons before using.
    Lemons contain a flavorful, acidic juice rich in vitamin C which is used in beverages, salad dressings, and baked goods. It is also commonly used as a flavoring - what would seafood be without a good squirt of fresh lemon juice? Lemon oil is extracted from the peel to make lemon extract used in cooking but also in making perfumes, cosmetics, detergents, dish soaps and furniture polish.
    Federal Street vinaigrette

    You’ll always find a bottle of this dressing in my fridge. It can do double duty as a marinade for fish and chicken, too.

    • 1 cup canola oil
    • 4 Tbsp. cider vinegar
    • 4 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
    • 4 tsp. sugar
    • 1 tsp. Dijon mustard
    • 1/4 tsp. white pepper
    • 2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
    • Combine all ingredients in a jar or bottle with a tight fitting lid. Shake well. Store in refrigerator for up to 1 month. Yield: 1-1/2 cups

    Lemon chicken with capers
    Be sure and rinse the capers before using, otherwise the dish may be too salty.

    • 1/2 cup all purpose flour
    • 1/2 tsp. salt
    • 1/4 tsp. white pepper
    • 1/4 tsp. garlic powder
    • 6 boneless, skinless chicken breast halves (1-1/2 to 2 lbs.)
    • 3 Tbsp. butter
    • 2 Tbsp. olive oil, divided use
    • 8 medium crimini mushrooms, sliced
    • 1 can (14 oz.) water packed artichoke hearts, drained and quartered
    • 1/2 cup dry white wine
    • 2 Tbsp. lemon juice
    • 1 Tbsp. capers, rinsed and drained

    Combine flour, salt, pepper and garlic powder in a shallow dish; whisk to blend. Coat chicken generously on both sides with mixture. Set aside.
    In a large skillet set over medium heat, melt butter with 1 Tbsp. of the olive oil. When hot, cook chicken pieces 4 minutes per side. Remove to a platter. Add remaining 1 Tbsp. olive oil to skillet and when hot, add mushrooms; sauté 4 minutes, stirring often. Add artichoke hearts, wine, lemon juice and capers. Cook 3-4 minutes or until bubbly, stirring occasionally. Add chicken back to pan; cover and reduce heat to low. Cook 12-15 minutes or until chicken is cooked through and sauce is slightly thickened. Yield: 6 servings.
    Lemony spinach orzo
    You can substitute frozen chopped spinach in this recipe. Use a 10-12 oz. package, thawed and squeezed dry.

    • 1 cup orzo (rice shaped pasta)
    • 1 Tbsp. extra virgin olive oil
    • 4 cups baby spinach
    • 2 Tbsp. finely minced shallot
    • 1/2 tsp. finely grated lemon zest
    • Salt and freshly ground black pepper

    Cook orzo according to package directions with 1 tsp. of salt; drain and reserve 1/4 cup cooking liquid. Return orzo to pan and drizzle with olive oil tossing to coat. Add spinach, shallot and lemon zest and gently toss to combine, adding reserved cooking water as needed until spinach is wilted. Season to taste with salt and pepper as needed. Yield: 4 servings.
    Lemon meringue cupcakes
    One of my dearest friends adores lemon meringue pie. When I made these I immediately thought of her. Just yummy!
    For the lemon filling:

    • 3 large egg yolks (reserve whites for meringue)
    • 3/4 cup granulated white sugar
    • 3 Tbsp. all-purpose flour
    • Pinch of salt
    • 3 Tbsp. lemon juice
    • 2 Tbsp. lemon zest, loosely packed
    • 1/2 cup water
    • 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter, melted and slightly cooled

    For the cupcakes:

    • 1/2 cup unsalted butter
    • 1 cup sugar
    • 2 large eggs
    • 3 Tbsp. lemon juice
    • 2 tsp. baking powder
    • 1 tsp. salt
    • 1-1/2 cups all purpose flour

    For the meringue: 

    • 3 large egg whites
    • Pinch of salt
    • 1/4 cup sugar

    To prepare the lemon filling: Place egg yolks, sugar, flour and salt in a small saucepan set over low heat and whisk to combine; add lemon juice, lemon zest, water and melted butter and increase heat to medium, Cook, whisking constantly, for about 7 minutes or until filling is thickened and mixture is smooth. Remove from heat and set aside.
    To prepare cupcakes: Combine butter and sugar in a medium bowl and beat with electric mixer on medium high until light and fluffy. Beat in eggs, lemon juice, baking powder, and salt; beat in flour until just combined. Divided batter between 12 paper lined cupcake wells and bake in a preheated 375 F oven for 15-16 minutes until center of cupcakes is firm. Remove cupcakes from oven and cool 5-8 minutes. Do not turn off oven.
    To prepare the meringue: Place egg white and salt in a medium bowl and beat with electric mixer on low speed for 1 minute. Increase speed to high and gradually add sugar beating just until meringue comes to stiff peaks.
    With the tip of a sharp paring knife, cut out center (about 1 inch in diameter) of each cupcake leaving a layer of cupcake beneath cut out. (Snack on the core at this point!) Fill cupcake centers with lemon filling. Divide dollops of meringue between the cupcakes, spreading out to edges and gently tapping with back of spoon to form peaks. Return cupcakes to oven and bake for 4-5 minutes or until meringue peaks are golden brown. Remove from oven and let cool 10 minutes. Refrigerate for an hour or more before serving. Yield: 12 cupcakes.

    Paula Anderson is a freelance journalist specializing in food, entertaining and nutrition. She writes for several newspapers and blogs for the Kitchen and Cork newsletter. She divides her time between Scarborough and Hobe Sound, Fla., where she lives with her husband Peter. Email her at pander@maine.rr.com.